TRIP REPORT FOR CLUB CANTAMAR, LaPAZ, MEXICO  NOV 2006

 

Most of us had never been to the Sea of Cortez before and the few that had were there so long ago we were essentially going into an unknown area.  None of our group had been to Club Cantamar before.  All we had to go on were trip reports by others on Rodale’s Website and the brochure from the resort. 

 

GETTING THERE

The flight down on United was quite pleasant and uneventful.  Customs and immigration were a snap.  We were met as promised at the airport and headed off in two vans for the resort.  We had flown directly from Chicago into San Jose del Cabo, but flights directly into La Paz are available as well which would have saved about 6 hours of driving round trip.  Oh well. The van driver stopped to let us buy beer and offload used beer as needed.  With beer stops, the trip to our resort took over 3 hours.  The trip to the resort was actually quite interesting, though.  The landscape was quite reminiscent of the American Southwest.  It was very dry with lots of cactus and sagebrush and the classic reddish brown dirt.  It was quite mountainous with large jagged peaks.  Most of the rivers we crossed were dried up to a trickle. 

 

THE RESORT

Club Cantamar is situated right next to a large ferry terminal on a small island connected to the mainland by a causeway.  The resort consists of half a dozen or so pinkish adobe 2 and 3 story buildings which are actually quite attractive in the sunshine against the bright blue sky so typical of that region.  The resort has a small marina adjacent to it with the resort dive boats as well as some half a dozen other boats moored there.  There was an open air bar adjacent to the waterfront and marina.  There was a swim up bar, too.  There is a small beach at one edge of the property along with a small seaplane hangar, but the beach isn’t really all that scenic since there are sea walls along the edges and a couple large PVC tubes running into and out of the water for unexplained purposes.  Perhaps cooling water for something?  To get to the beach you had to walk past a large pile of rubble that used to be a building of some sort.  There was also some sort of boat storage area there.  One old crappy boat sitting on blocks is pretty much standard at every dive resort I have visited, but 5 crappy old boats makes a junkyard.  OK, take the old boats and sink them for dive sites already.  In all fairness to the resort, the boats and the rubble may have been damaged by the recent hurricane. 

 

As soon as we began to check in, we began to experience the infuriatingly inefficient front office.  In due time we got our keys and remotes for the air conditioner and the TV and headed to our rooms.  However there was really no one there to greet us except the desk clerk.  A better way would have been to have someone take us all as a group to the bar and give us a 5 or 10 minute orientation.   No one told us where or when to go for dinner.  No one told us where to put our dive gear.  No one told us much of anything.  By sheer determination and some detective work, we figured out where to put our dive gear.  More importantly we figured out where the bar and restaurant were and prepared to enjoy the week and leave the little annoyances behind.  All of us were looking forward to diving the next day and we were especially encouraged when we talked with the divers just arriving from a day on the Sea of Cortez.  They had seen several whale sharks and were quite excited. 

 

Despite the inefficient front office, the staff we dealt with were pleasant and at least seemed to want to help us even if they didn’t exactly know how. 


The resort is quite compact and everything (restaurant, beach, bar, pool, dive shop) is very close by and convenient.  There is not much in the way of green and growing stuff.  There were some palm trees around the pool (which was quite nice and very clean) and some plants, bushes, and a few trees between and in front of some of the buildings, but most was open space.  Hurricane John had come through a few months before, so maybe some of the plants and trees got blown away.  Who knows?  It did appear as if some landscaping work was being done.

 

The rooms were not especially fancy, but were quite nice and clean.  Most of the rooms had a small patio or balcony with a table and chairs.  The patio was nice, but in my room getting to the patio was somewhat awkward in that you had to climb over one of the beds to open the sliding door.  There was a single dresser/desk combo and a closet which provided very little storage for clothes and sundries.  The beds were fine even for my 6’4” frame and I had no back pain all week which is more than I can claim from my mattress at home (perhaps Corona and Tequila are muscle relaxers?)  I had no complaints about the maid service.  The shower was functional, although somewhat difficult for someone of my size to enter and exit, and I had plenty of hot water every time I took a shower.  Each room had a ceiling mounted air conditioner and a ceiling fan which worked well.  Each room also had a TV, but the only channels I could find in English were ESPN and TNT.  The front office offered free wi-fi service (when it worked) and had a computer for guests to use as well.  There was no mention made of the water in the faucet being safe to drink or not, but there was bottled water available right out side the room.  There were surprisingly few bugs around and no one needed to use bug spray at all during the week. 

 

 

THE FOOD

The on-site restaurant was pleasant and clean, with nice décor, a reasonably good view of the bay, and ample seating.  We had real padded chairs, not plastic lawn furniture like some other resorts.  Breakfast and dinner are served buffet style.  For breakfast we typically had an egg dish or an omelet, toast, pancakes, potatoes, fruit, yogurt, cereal, juice, and coffee.  For dinner we had a choice of 2 or 3 entrees and salad and vegetable and dessert.  A couple times we had outdoor barbeques along the pool, as well.  Drinks were not included except a small glass of juice.  However, bottled water was always available.  The bar was right next door, too, and the prices seemed reasonable for drinks; $2 for a beer, $1 for a coke.  The bartender, Ruiz (?), was very attentive and he kept very good records of tabs even with 2 separate people on the same room tab.  As anyone in my dive club can tell you, being a bachelor, I am a lousy food critic.  If it doesn’t come out of a pop tart box or a microwave it is practically gourmet for me.  Even so, I felt the quality and quantity of the food at breakfast and dinner was quite good.  All meals were buffet style, so if you went away hungry it was your own fault.


Since we did 3 dives without coming back to the dock, lunch was served on the boat between the 2nd and 3rd dives.  Lunch was either a sandwich or a couple tamales and some cookies, chips, and pop.  I thought the lunches were fine, but a couple people did complain about some nausea after eating lunch on the boat.   Hard to say if that was due to the lunch or the rocking dive boat.  I had no problem with the lunches on the boat all week.
Those non divers staying back at the resort were disappointed by lunch.  They thought they should have more of a selection than the few items offered.  As I never ate lunch at the resort all week, I cannot comment on that. 



THE DIVING

Club Cantamar has its own fleet of dive boats operated by Baja Diving and Service.  Each boat had a divemaster and captain. The divemaster often doubled as the boat crewman.  A couple times we had a second crewman aboard to help with the tanks and anchoring.  All the dive boats were quite large and roomy with lots of seating.  They all had private heads, more than ample gear storage, and even plenty of dry storage.  They had reasonable camera tanks aboard and the staff eventually got us even more camera tanks once we showed them how many cameras our group had.  The divemasters gave good briefings before each site, and most site briefings include a rudimentary map of the area.  Our divemaster, Marco, spoke quite understandable English, which is not always a given at dive resorts.  The divemasters were helpful with gear and fins, but as always, I wish the divemasters would realize that I would much rather have them take my camera from me at the stern ladder than help me change my tank.  It is significantly easier to change over a tank than to climb up a ladder with fins in one hand and my large camera rig in the other.  As often as not, a fellow diver had to take my camera because the DM was helping some other diver with his/her gear.   Oh yeah…my first gripe about the dive op: Get rid of the round steps on the ladders.  Anyone who has climbed a round rung ladder in soft sole dive boots with a weight integrated BC and tank on their back can tell you it hurts!!  Weld or bolt some non-skid flat plates on the rungs.   The boat ladders were quite good in all other ways. 

 

The scuba tanks were all AL80s.  Tank fills were for the most part a consistent 28-2900 psi, however, a few times I got a 2600psi fill.   The DMs were good about setting out full tanks for us between dives.  All the tanks I checked were in hydro (again, not always the case at dive resorts).  Since we did 3 dives each day without returning to the dock, there were a LOT of tanks on the boat.  There was ample storage for them, though, and none were ever left rolling around. 

 

The water temperature in the second week of November was about 79F.  Most of us had been expecting water temps a few degrees cooler and had brought 5mm suits.  Actually that turned out to be OK seeing as we were essentially doing 3 dives in a row.  We were allowed to pretty much buddy up as we saw fit and to dive our own profiles on most of the dive sites.  The only limitation was that we were limited to a dive time of 55 minutes on most sites.

 

The rides out to the dive sites were typically about an hour and 15 minutes to an hour and a half. 

Unlike many dive destinations, however, the shoreline scenery in the Sea of Cortez is quite beautiful. It looks as if parts of Arizona were dropped into the ocean.  The shore consisted of buttes, mountains, hills covered with cactus, and brilliant red/orange rock formations with almost nothing in the way of development or even any permanent structures.  Occasionally we came across a sailboat, another dive boat, or some kayakers, but for the most part we had the sea to ourselves.  The water was a brilliant blue as was the sky most of the time.  The air temps were typically in the upper 80s.  In that area, it is typically calm in the morning and gets progressively windier throughout the day until near sunset.  This led to another of my very few gripes about the dive operation.  A couple times we had snorkelers and kayakers out on the boat with us.  When the seas kicked up a bit, we had to skip diving the planned site because it would have been too rough for the snorkelers and kayakers, but would have been just fine for scuba divers.  Most times, however, the divemaster asked us where we wanted to go and what we wanted to see.  They didn’t have a set itinerary; rather they went where we asked within constraints of the weather.   It was interesting to note that there are no permanent moorings at any of the sites.  Unlike dive ops in the Caribbean, the dive boat dropped anchor at all the sites.  However, since the bottom was just sand or big rocks, the anchors didn’t do any harm that I could see. 

 

My only other gripe about the dive op is that if you had a problem out on the water or got seasick, you were stuck all day on the boat.  Unlike most resorts which do one or two dives and then return to the dock, we left the dock at 830AM (OK, OK; 845-9AM) and typically did not return until 4PM.  Woe betide the diver who forgot some crucial piece of equipment or got a sinus block.  With the high cost of fuel and the distances involved, there was really no other practical way to run the dives, though, and to be honest, there were few complaints about the long days except from the non diving spouses.  Typically the first dive would be about 10:15 or so.  Then a quick fruit snack and surface interval followed by another dive at 12:30 or so.  During the second surface interval we ate a lunch prepared by the captain during our second dive.  Then we made a third dive about 230PM.  Typically the first dive was the furthest away from the resort with the second two being on the way back.  Usually we were back at the resort by 4 – 430PM. 

 

Overall, I would rate the dive operation at Club Cantamar as excellent.

Most dive sites were rocky walls/slopes starting about 50-60 feet deep in the coarse sand and rising up to the rock and in some cases small islands.  Where the dive site was adjacent to an island there was often quite a bit of surge which actually seemed to improve the fish life and visibility.  It was in the sites closer to the resort that we encountered the worst visibility.  Most sites had 40-50 feet or more of visibility, but some, especially the close in wrecks, had only 20-30 feet or so.  Some of the closer in sites also had a great deal of suspended particulate matter which ironically accounts for the abundance of marine life.  There was very little current on most dives.  Most of the topography was large boulders which had tumbled from a nearby rock formation or just solid bedrock.  There was almost no hard coral at all except in a few spots like Swanee reef, instead there were rocks covered with marine growth.  Starfish of many colors were abundant as were sea urchins.  Some sites had a few sea fans on some of the rock walls, but most had just a grayish green coating of marine growth or patches of cup coral.  Almost no seaweed or sponges of any kind were seen except in some of the caves and wrecks.


Despite the somewhat Spartan appearance of the rock/reefs in the Sea of Cortez, they were crawling with fish.  Puffer fish were abundant as were grunts, scads, goatfish, cornet fish, and surgeonfish.  Quite a few parrotfish were present, too.  On some sites such as Swanee reef the entire reef was covered with huge schools of fish of all kinds.  It was difficult to get photos of the reef for all the fish around it.  Seeing a huge school of baitfish covering a football sized section of reef was quite a remarkable experience.  There were quite a few moray eels of at least 4 different species hiding in and under the boulders, too.  There were also 2 indigenous angel fish, the Cortez and the King angel. 

 

Club Cantamar offers a few unique and adrenaline producing dives.  The first day we took a fairly long boat ride of about an hour and 30 minutes to La Islotes which is an active sea lion colony.  The site is an island of maybe 700 yards long by 100 yards wide which rises out of the ocean at the end of a string of islands.  Beyond that island is the open Sea of Cortez.  The island has a colony of about 300 or so sea lions.  As soon as we approached the island we could hear them barking and see them playing and rolling in the water.  They were not at all afraid of divers even though they are wild.  Pretty much every diver had one buzz by at a high rate of speed about 6 inches from their masks, and some even were treated to them playing with their gear or camera equipment.  The divemaster gave us some instructions as to how to interact with the sea lions and to my knowledge no one had any problems with them.  The sea lions tended to stay shallow, but would occasionally come down to check out the divers on the bottom.  The rest of the dive site was pretty typical for the area with solid rock walls and tumbled boulders running down to the sand at about 50 feet or so.  There was a shallow channel separating the two above water sections of La Islota.  Beyond the channel was the rougher water of the open sea.  In the surge it was tough for divers to negotiate the channel, but the sea lions had no problem.  There was also a small cave toward one end of the site.  Again while the divers were limited by the darkness, the sea lions seemed to have no problem at all. 

 

Another unique dive was the Whale shark experience.  This was not a true dive in that no scuba equipment is used.  Club Cantamar has a small two seat spotter plane which flies ahead of the boat and spots whale sharks in the water.  Each diver chips in twenty dollars for the fuel and pilot.  When a shark is spotted, the pilot radios the boat and the captain positions the boat ahead and to one side of the shark.  Small groups of divers enter the water and try to swim alongside the shark.  It works best when the water is calm and clear which unfortunately was not the case on the day we went out.  We had about six feet of vis and it was very rough.  It was really tough to get the snorkelers into the water and onto the boat in the high seas especially because the shark we spotted was in only fifteen feet of water.  The wind was blowing toward shore and the captain had to anchor the boat to keep from running aground.  I give the captain credit for handing the boat in those difficult conditions.  The snorkelers then had to swim to the boat.  Several snorkelers were really not up to the task.  Despite all the problems, I got my turn and right after jumping in I was face to face with a real WHALE SHARK!!!  It was only about 12-15 feet long, but who cares?  It was my first whale shark in 27 years of diving.  I only had time to snap off a couple photos before the shark outran me despite my swimming as hard as I could.  Eventually all the divers got to see the shark at least once before the spotter plane ran out of gas.  Count that day as a success. 

 

Yet another unusual dive is the hammerhead shark experience.  We took a rather long boat ride out to El Bajo which is a seamount about 5 miles offshore.  The weather was pretty calm, but still it was a long bouncy ride in the open ocean.  Once at the sea mount we divided into two groups.  Those not wanting to dive deep could stay and dive the seamount at about 60 feet or so.  Those who wanted to see the hammerheads swam up current at a depth of about eighty feet until we spotted the first shark below us.  Then we dropped down to about 110 feet and were treated to several more sharks.  Some lucky individuals saw schools of twenty or more sharks.  The sharks were all hammerheads about 6-10 feet in length.  In all my years diving and in thousands of dives, I have seen 2 (two) hammerheads before.  Here we saw dozens.  The only bad thing about this dive was the depth.  We had very little bottom time at 110 feet and the sharks were not being very friendly.  They tended to be somewhat afraid of divers.   We were cautioned not to bang tanks or use quackers or to make any sudden movements to scare away the sharks.  After the deep portion of the dive was over, the rest of the dive was just drifting in the blue back to the sea mount.  Occasionally a school of little bonitas, triggerfish, or baitfish would come up to check us out as we hung there.

 

There are a surprising number of shipwrecks in and around the La Paz area.  Some were put down as artificial reefs, but some are honest to goodness shipwrecks.  The 4 we were able to dive during the week were the C-59, a US WWII destroyer sold to the Mexican Navy and later sunk as an artificial reef; the Fang Ming, a freighter caught smuggling illegal aliens to the US and later sunk as a reef; the Salvatierra, a passenger/truck ferry which sank after striking a reef over 30 years ago; and an unnamed wreck off La Reina.  All the artificial reefs were prepared for divers, but in many ways the “real” shipwrecks were cooler as they had more history.  In my opinion, the unnamed wreck at La Reina was the best of them all, even though it was the most damaged.  It had a HUGE boiler and steam engine sitting in the open along with the stern section and propeller upside down nearby.  All of the wrecks had large schools of fish in and around them.  The artificial wrecks had been prepared for divers with many holes cut in the decks and sides.

 

One thing that is always really nice to have at a dive resort is gear storage.  Club Cantamar had one of the best gear storage setups I have seen.  Each diver got a closet sized cage complete with hangars for all the gear.  Each cage could be locked and the entire room was locked each night.  There was moderate air flow in the room and the gear was at least reasonably dry in the morning.  There were pretty nice rinse tanks with hoses to rinse off the salt water.   There were no camera tanks, though unless one wanted to risk tossing a camera in the gear tanks.  Divers who did not bring a lock could rent one at the front desk (provided the perennial unsolvable problem was not going on at that time).  The gear storage area was right next to the dive boat dock so loading and unloading gear was no problem at all.  The dive shop provided weights and belts and also had plastic crates which neatly fit under the dive boat seats for all our gear.  Some felt this worked better than the classic mesh bag for carrying gear.  I stuck with my mesh bag, though.  Nitrox was available, but no one in our group used it so I really don’t have any info on price or O2%. 

 

 

We came as a group of 12 divers and 3 non divers, but as the week progressed, we started picking up additions to our group.  There was another group of divers from France there at Club Cantamar, and for whatever reason some of the other divers in pairs and small groups on their boat did not like diving with them.  So each day found our group growing by a couple more divers.  We first picked up a couple of really cool girls from Colorado, Kim and Lori.  Then we added a nice couple from Ohio, David and Sarah.  Then a small family group from California came aboard our boat as well.  Finally 2 couples from Italy joined us on our boat.  Of course since the group on our boat was now quite large, we were moved to the bigger and faster boat which didn’t bother us at all.  I am not sure the French group felt the same way.  Cest La Vie.  Actually one of the best things about this trip was how well everyone in the group got along. 

 

 

THE CITY OF LA PAZ

Pretty much the only thing for non divers to do once they tired of reading, laying at the beach or by the pool, or watching TNT and ESPN was to head to La Paz.  There was some sort of day use beach/bar deal across the small bay from the resort that had JetSkis for rent, but they were not affiliated with the resort.  The resort advertised a few free shuttles to and from town each day, but the service was intermittent.  Several times people were shuttled to town only to find themselves having to hire a taxi to return to the tune of $17-$20.  The last day when all the divers wanted to go to town, we were told the morning shuttle driver called in sick.  The front desk clerk just shrugged and said we would have to hire a taxi ourselves.  In my opinion if the resort advertises a service they should provide it even if THEY have to pay for the taxi.  But we all ponied up for the cab and headed off on the half hour ride into town.  The city itself despite being quite large at over 400,000 people, doesn’t really appear to be a big city.  There are no towering skyscrapers or monstrous glass and steel buildings.  Rather the city looks like a giant town.  The waterfront area is very pleasant with lots of open space and ample sidewalks.  Another nice thing about La Paz is that there were no hordes of cruise ship passengers like in Cozumel.  One wonders how long that will last.  Of course no Mexican waterfront town would be complete without a Carlos N Charlie’s and La Paz is no exception.  The people all seemed very friendly and quite a few spoke some English.  American dollars were just fine everywhere.  Curiously, there were almost no beggars and very few sidewalk hawkers.  Compared to San Miguel in Cozumel or Coxen Hole in Roatan it was a quiet town.  There was no garbage laying around, either.  It was a shame we were not able to spend more time there.  By coincidence the week we were there was the finish of the Baja 1000 off road race.  The race ended in La Paz.  This meant that every hotel in the area was booked or overbooked and occasionally a very dusty truck or motorcycle would come roaring down the road or some worn out looking driver or pit crewman would come walking into the restaurant/bar in their racing outfits.  Some of the racers, pit crews, and support staff were staying at Club Cantamar, too.  It was interesting talking with them at the bar. 

 

 

THE BOTTOM LINE
Club Cantamar is not a dive resort for someone who must have top end luxury.  It is not a 5-star resort, but it is clean and comfortable and the food is good.  The rooms and facilities are comparable to most other dive resorts and considering the price we paid it was fine.

The difficulties with the infuriatingly inefficient front office never did go away.  Pretty much any inquiry to the front desk more complicated than getting an extra towel was met with the reply "oh, can you check back later".   That was if you could actually get to talk to the desk clerk.  There seemed to be a perpetual unsolvable problem between some guest and the front desk staff going on every time we checked in at the front office.  In all fairness to the office staff, almost all the issues did EVENTUALLY get resolved.

And finally, there is pretty much nothing for a non diver to do at the resort except hang out at the pool or beach, and the dive schedule is such that the divers are gone most of the day.

 

But in one week of diving, in addition to excellent diving in general, we saw a large number of sea lions, my first WHALE SHARK!!!  and quite a large number of hammerhead sharks.  All this an hour and a half or less from the resort.  In addition to the tremendous amount of marine life, there are at least 5 diveable shipwrecks in and around the area.

 

There are problems at some dive resorts which are very difficult to solve such as local cultural differences, rotten weather, lack of marine life, poor visibility, or extreme difficulty in getting to the resort.  Club Cantamar has none of those problems.  The area boasts great weather, an incredible amount of marine life, high adrenaline dives, and is easy to get to.  The terrain is quite beautiful.  The dive operation is top notch.  The locals are very friendly to Americans.  The few problems with the resort are in my mind easily solved.  With a little upgrading of the grounds, a new bookkeeping system, and some butt-kicking of the front office staff, Club Cantamar could be a real winner for divers.  To his credit, Pedro, the manager (who was offsite most of the week purchasing a new dive boat) did make it a point to intercept me at the airport and apologize for the inconvenience the front office caused the week we were there.  He explained that there had just been an almost 100% turnover in the office staff recently and that was the cause of much of the difficulty.  He expressed a real desire to correct the situation with us and wanted us to return in the future.

 

I would hesitate to recommend Club Cantamar to non-divers or kids as there isn’t much for them to do.  But for divers who don’t have to be in the lap of luxury and who want to experience the wonderful weather and unique diving opportunities offered by the Sea of Cortez, I would recommend Club Cantamar.